PUT-PUT: How to Get Around Arequipa

It seems every city puts its own twist on how to move people around, and probably most every city thinks it could improve in its methods.  In Cuenca, Ecuador, for example, buses and taxis were the main modes of transportation, with every bus trip costing a flat 25 cents and with the taxis costing from $3 to $5 per trip, depending upon location (not on time spent in the vehicle).  We used both extensively, as well as our feet, which were free.

Here in Arequipa, the buses are called “combis,” and there don’t seem to be any bus route brochures available, and even if there were, I doubt we would get on one.  They are smaller vehicles with side doors.  They pull over to a bus “stop” (a bus “slow” would be more accurate), and a guy leans out the door and yells where the bus is going.  If someone wants to get on, he grabs them by the arm and he hoists at the same time as the person jumps.  Money is then collected on board (I don’t know how much, but it’s not a significant amount), and the person tries to find a place to stand.  The common joke one hears around here is this one:

QUESTION:  How many people can you get on a combi? 

ANSWER:     one more

The combis don't all look this bad, but many of them do.

and this is how they generally look -- packed!

This is the common sight:  a guy hanging out the door yelling where they are going.  The combi slows down, and people hop in.

The more common mode of transportation is taxis, which cost from $1 to $2, depending upon how far you are going (again, not on time spent in the vehicle).  It’s a great deal if you don’t mind old vehicles with very few shock absorbers, but in a pinch, they are great, and there are thousands of them.

A few of the thousands of taxis in Arequipa

The issue with taking the taxis here is that you have to be careful which ones you get in.  There have been cases of people getting in, being kidnapped, having their money taken (and sometimes clothes), and left along the road, sometimes beaten up.  Thus, prudence is wise.  Here are a few pics of some of the taxis from more well-known companies:

Mostly, the taxis are these little, yellow vehicles, and mostly in tough shape.

Taxitel is one of the larger companies.  This one has the marking for "Tottus" on the window, which is one of the large grocery stores, so generally a taxi like this would be sitting outside the store, ready to take you home with your goodies.  

Turisimo Arequipa is another of the larger taxi companies.

Here are some guidelines people have provided us to assure our safety: 

(1)   Use one of the larger taxi companies

(2)   Look for taxis that have numbers and phone numbers and other info permanently placed on the exterior of the vehicle.  Don’t get in a taxi that only has one marker of its being a taxi.

(3)  Look for information about the owner’s taxi license.

(4)  In a pinch, choose an older taxi driver rather than a young one.

(5)  Don’t use a taxi with loud music blaring.

(6)  In the evening, have the restaurant call a taxi for you.  Or else call one yourself.

(7)  If you are at a grocery store or a mall, use the approved store/mall taxis which will be right out front.

Here are a few examples of "unmarked" taxis which we have been advised never to take, even if they are decent cars.  

Notice there is just one small taxi sign on top.  This is someone who is trying to make a little extra money with his personal car, which isn't all that bad, but . . . . 

Another car with too few "professional" taxi markers -- a taxi to avoid. 

and another to avoid.

and another.  These four examples could very well be honest drivers, but it's best to stick with the large company taxis.

We have had no issues (courteous and pleasant drivers), but an interesting thing did occur one evening as we carefully chose a taxi at Plaza de Armes (the main square) one evening about 9:00.  We had gotten into the taxi and a police officer came over to the taxi.  He asked the taxi driver many questions and wrote down all of his answers in a little notebook.  The entire exchange took about 2 minutes, and the police officer said the driver could go.  Clearly, the police officer was looking out for two obvious gringos on the street at night.  Thanks to him.  Fortunately, our driver was very polite, answered all the questions, and took us home without incident.

Our preferred mode of transportation, though, is to walk.  It is good exercise, it is cheap, and you can see so much more as one dawdles along, for as Thoreau once said, “It’s a great art to saunter.”